Finding the Soul of Tea: My First Bulang Mountain Shankang Festival

A Familiar Mountain, A New Journey

I’ve wandered the verdant slopes of Bulang Mountain in Yunnan many times, each visit gifting me something new—whether it’s a masterful tea roaster’s story or a rare Pu-erh blend. But this time, on April 8th according to the lunar calendar, I entered the heart of the Bulang people’s Shankang Tea Ancestor Festival, or Hao Ge Long, for the first time.

The ancient tea trees, their leaves whispering in the breeze, carried a faint, earthy fragrance that felt alive. This visit was different: I found the soul of the mountain—a profound reverence for the land, a commitment to its ecology, and a deep respect for the tea trees that sustain it.

Dawn of the Sacred Day

“Today is the Buddha’s birthday, our most important day to honor the tea ancestors,” an elder said, his eyes bright with pride. In Bulang, Shankang means “worshipping the tea ancestor,” a ritual pulsing with reverence. As dawn broke, a cow horn echoed through the village, calling everyone to action. We all converged toward the Tea Soul Platform, drawn by the rhythm of tradition.

The Heart of the Ritual

I had imagined a shaman leading the ceremony, but instead, two figures guided the rites: the Buddha Master, chanting Buddhist blessings, and the Daman, a seer communing with nature’s spirits. Together, they blended ancient animism with Buddhist grace, bridging the past and present.

The Altar and Offerings

Under the majestic Tea King Tree, a simple altar stood, draped with red cloth fluttering in the wind. Bamboo torch holders, called Zutong in Bulang, flanked the setup. The offerings were abundant: sticky rice, rice wine, a whole chicken, fresh tea leaves, and a pig’s head, each reflecting the Bulang’s deep bond with the land.

Fire and Smoke

As drums thundered, the Zutong torches were lit. The sharp scent of pine resin and burning bamboo filled the air. The villagers chanted softly, believing that the smoke carried their wishes to the tea ancestors.

Concluding Thoughts

This festival is not merely a ritual; it is a reminder of the Bulang people’s unbroken relationship with tea. I left with a renewed sense of reverence for this ancient art of tea, grateful to witness this sacred celebration.